A few weeks ago I was cashing in some leftover travelers checks in Toronto.

“Where were you?” the teller asked.

“Mexico,” I replied far too wistfully.

“Wow,” he said. “I’ve always wanted to go visit Mexico really bad.”

“Why don’t you?” I asked.

“Well, the media makes me too afraid to go,” he replied.

That’s right: The media makes him too afraid to go to Mexico. The media.

I’m not saying that Mexico doesn’t have its fair share of dangers. After all, border cities like Ciudad Juarez are some of the most dangerous cities in the world. But during my travels to southern and central Mexico I’ve felt very comfortable as a whole. More comfortable, unfortunately, than I did in Guatemala.

Above all, Mexico City has the worst reputation, one that it doesn’t really deserve. People would ask where I was in Mexico, and when I say the capital their eyes open wide.

No, really, it’s not that bad. In fact, it’s a wonderful place. Of course, you want to take safety precautions – don’t wander around late at night, call and don’t hail a taxi, yada yada yada – and avoid bad areas, but Mexico City is in fact a wonderful and surprisingly accessible destination for a city of around 25 million.

Why?

1. Public transportation that’s both awesome and cheap. The metro is fast and goes almost anywhere you’d want to visit. And it costs about 25 cents a ride. It’s almost always busy, so while you’ll want to look out for pickpockets, crowds of people are always good for safety.

If the metro isn’t getting you where you want, there’s also the Metrobus, a fabulous new system that is sort of a cross between subway and a regular bus. Buses zip along two major roads and pick people up in subway-style platforms. Efficient and also cheap (40 cents). And when there’s no Metrobus, there’s also peseros, minibuses that go anywhere and everywhere and cost almost nothing.

When you need a taxi, it’s best to call one but even that’s not too expensive. I took a private radio taxi from south-west of downtown to the airport (and this is a huge city so keep in mind the large distances) and it only cost 9 bucks.

2. Cheap museums and galleries. So many cities are inaccessible for the budget traveler because it’s “cultural” things cost so goddamn much. I mean, isn’t getting into the Museum of Modern Art in NYC about a bazillion dollars? (Or twenty.) I went to see the excellent Museo de Arte Contemporaneo. I was disappointed to find out it wasn’t free museum day (Sundays) but that I’d have to pay the extortionate price of… $1.50. Other great museums in the city include Museo Tamayo, Bellas Artes (free), the Frida Museum, the Trotksy museum and more.

3. Clear, distinct neighborhoods. One of the reasons Toronto is my favourite city in Canada is its unique distinct neighborhoods. Mexico City has this too! Condesa, Roma, Coyoacan, Centro Historico and many more have their own particular feel and make Mexico City a lot more manageable than you’d think.

4. A city on the move. For all the griping you’ll hear from resident chilangos, you do get the sense that Mexico City is a place that embraces change, that’s trying new things out, that’s striving for improvement. For instance, there have been efforts in recent years to make the city more bike friendly. They now close down Avenida Reforma on Sundays so it can be used exclusively by cyclists. In the neighborhoods of Polanco, Condesa and Roma there’s also a bike sharing program. You pay an annual fee (about 20 bucks) and then a very nominal fee to rent the bike by the hour. There’s pick up and drop off spots throughout these central neighborhoods. This are just a couple of the interesting things that Mexico City is doing.

5. Helpful population. You’ll hear people from other cities describe people from the capital as rude and unfriendly. (You’ll also hear Mexico City residents describe people from the “provinces” as close-minded and uneducated, so I guess the score is even.) But it’s not really true. The people of Mexico City – chilangos – are very friendly and most would be happy to give you advice or point you in the right direction.

There’s many, many more reasons to love Mexico City, but these are just to show that the capital is really not the scary place you imagined it was.

I love it here. Guatemala is one of two countries I love the most (along with Burkina Faso) and I am very attached to the place. I was supposed to be in Guatemala for only two months this summer, now I’m staying for at least eight. Life is good here, people are interesting, and the surroundings are beautiful.

I don’t think I will choose to live here for longer than eight months, however. There are some jobs here opening up in the next couple months – year long contracts that pay minimally but that could probably support me. I think, however, that once I finish my six months as volunteer coordinator for a local cooperative that I am going to choose to say goodbye to Guatemala and look for jobs somewhhere new.

Crime rates are up in Guatemala. Against foreigners, they are up 138%. Xela (Quetzaltenango) feels a bit different than last year, not quite the tranquil oasis in a chaotic country that it used to be. Stories of crimes against foreigners in the city are much more frequent than they used to be.

I’m not scared, really. I still enjoy living here. Most of the bad things have happened late, late at night when people weren’t taking the proper safety precautions like taking taxis (not to say anyone deserves what happens to them, but risks can be mitigated.) I am very safety conscious here and as a result I feel secure here.

At the same time, I don’t want to have to be so safety conscious. I don’t want to have thoughts about safety always occupying my brain. I don’t want my evenings out to be dictated by how I am getting home safely.

I love it here, but in no other country I’ve been to has safety been on the brain that much.

Guatemala is still a wonderful, beautiful, amazing country that everyone should visit. Crime should not deter people from traveling here, because safety precautions can be taken to avoid problems. In fact, I am always struck at just how easy travel here can be.

It’s different when you’re somewhere long-term, though. It’s true that in the long run, I plan on working in less secure places (I am planning on applying to be a delegate with the Red Cross in a year or so) so I know that being safety conscious is going to be a big part of the rest of my life. After six more months here, though, I’m going to move on somewhere totally new. How it will be, I don’t know, but until my “career” gets “serious,” I’d like to take a shot at being carefree.

Today, I was leaving Infinito, my favourite cafe in Xela, and the waiter mumbled something as I walked out the door.

“Que?” I asked.

“Cuidate,” he repeated himself, laughing.

This was the middle of a beautiful sunny afternoon, so again I found the warning sort of odd. Is Guatemala really so dangerous that people need to constantly remind each other to be careful?

A few hours later, I realized that “cuidate” really means something like “take care.” It does make sense, then, as a way of saying goodbye.

Regardless, though, safety is a valid concern in this country. It’s something that seems to be on many Guatemalan minds. Most of my female Spanish teachers frequently offer advice on safety, stating that they apply the same rules to their own children. The overwhelming concern with safety is evident on the iron bars separating customer from staff in most convenient stores. In other businesses (such as my hotel or the chocolate-banana lady) staff initially greet customers through tiny windows in heavy metal doors.

It amazes me, considering how much Guatemalans seem to care about their personal safety, how many foreigners seem to take theirs for granted.

I know lots of girls in Xela (lots!) who insist on walking home alone from the bar late at night. Sure, there is a only a small chance that anything would happen. But considering it would cost about $2.50 to take a reputable taxi home, or how easy it would be to arrange a big group to walk with, wouldn’t it be better to reduce the risk to a very, very, very small chance?

I knew a girl once who wanted to walk home from the bar alone. Like many other girls, her safety was not worth two and a half dollars to her. However, one day when I offered her some delicious sliced mango that I bought from a vendor, she said she wouldn’t eat it because she didn’t know if the knife that cut it was clean.

Talk about priorities! Dude, I’d take a risk of diarrhea over attack any day.

It’s important not to paint a negative picture of Guatemala – despite the slightly heightened risk of crime, there is so much more about this country that is wonderful. I’m still able to walk through Central Park on a sunny day, feeling carefree and eating a sweet 6Q cone of coconut Sarita ice cream. I go out at night – in a big group, and have a great time.

Life here makes me happy – because I take the simple steps required to mitigate the risks that do exist. One I take these steps, I move on with my life and enjoy myself.

I think it’s important not to let unrealistic fear keep you from discovering different parts of the world and living your life. However, it’s important to be realistic when in a different country, and unfortunately, I get frustrated that so many travelers don’t do this. I don’t want to say “I told you so,” though, so I hope none get themselves into any trouble.

According to the Rough Guide to Guatemala, chicken bus drivers “always seems to be moustachioed ladinos with an eye for the ladies and a fixation for speed and overtaking on blind corners.”

This is completely true.

When I did the Antigua to Xela journey last summer by tourist shuttle (with a stop in Panajachel, mind you) it took almost six hours. Today, our chicken bus made it in three and a half.

We raced along the curving highway at speeds unimaginable. At one point, we passed a tourist shuttle and I stared at them through the window, saying “S’long suckers!” Yes: the experience is a mixture of fun and fear.

At most points in the journey, the seats were jammed with three people each. For slight Mayans this is, of course, not a problem. But for wide gringa bottoms it’s just a little cozy. About two hours into the trip, a young man brought a box full of raw fish aboard, and I knew it was time to hit the Gravol.

Truth be told, though, it’s this kind of chaos that keeps me hooked on travel, especially to developing countries. It keeps me on my toes and makes me feel alive, as cliched as it sounds.

On chicken buses, where there were once rules for American schoolchildren posted at the front (“No standing on the bus. No smoking. No food or beverage”) there are now only religious quotes:

“I drive – God guides me”

or

“We are all in God’s hands.”

Even for a non-religious person like myself, these quotes summarize the attitude needed to travel. Roll with the punches. Cross your fingers and go with it. When you arrive in one piece, you’ll feel happier than you did before. When the fresh air is blowing through the windows and merengue is blaring on the stereo, all you can do is enjoy the ride.

Unfortunately, the one real problem on the trip from Antigua to Xela was that my friend Jen was robbed. While changing buses in Chimaltenango, someone must have slashed the bottom of her bag, because once we were on the next bus we noticed a hole at the bottom and her wallet was gone. Luckily, her passport and cash were in her money belt so after being initially really shaken up, I think she feels better now. Something I felt a year ago when I was robbed for the first time (in Ouagadougou) – thankful that as long as your health and sanity is with you, nothing you lose is that important.

The other day I heard a hilarious suggestion (see #5.) That got me pondering, what is the best place to hide your money? Here are five common places (okay, besides #5.)
Places to keep your money safe.

1. In a money belt

Pros: You can keep a lot of stuff here and it will remain organized. Plus this will prevent pickpockets.

Cons: Criminals know about these. So while it will stop a pickpocket, a mugger is likely to check for a money belt. Other drawbacks: it can get uncomfortably sweaty, and it’s difficult to use if you are wearing a dress.

2. Inside your bra

Pros: This will deter pickpockets, and a mugger might be less likely to check here. It’s easily accessible no matter what you are wearing. If there’s not much money there it can’t be seen from the outside.

Cons: Not for (most) dudes. An unexpected make out session might lead to accidentally losing your money. And you can’t keep very much here.

3. In a secret pocket sewn on the inside of your pants

Pros: Very unlikely that any criminal will steal this, unless they also steal your clothes. Depending on placement, less sweaty and smelly than other places.

Cons: It will take effort to sew this secret pocket. Depending on the placement, it wouldn’t be easily accessible. And if you wear more than one pair of pants, you will have to sew even more pockets.

4. Inside a belt with a secret compartment.

Pros: All the benefits of a money belt, without feeling all awkward and lumpy. Easily accessible and not obvious.

Cons: Are you seriously going to wear the same belt all the time? Do you really need to spend $18 for such a contraption? Plus, if the belt is ugly you will look like a tool, but if the belt looks totally cool a thief might want to steal it anyway.

5. In a sanitary pad.

Pros: Who would possibly think to look here?

Cons: This is totally gross.

None of these ideas would work particularly well in a country like Ghana (before the revaluation of the cedi)… Here I am in 2006 showing off my loaded wallet… which contains a wad of cash that is worth at most $10.

Anyways, I met a nice diplomat who liked a travel article I’d published in the Ottawa Citizen, and he put me in contact with a friend of his in Guatemala who is offering to take me up in an Ultralight. This offer is one of the few things that has given me a bit of a feeling of fear. I’m not particularly afraid of heights… but the idea still gives me the jitters. But I want to be a yes person, and take interesting opportunities as they come. So I think I’ll do it.