Mexico City can at times be an overwhelming place. The traffic, the smog and ginormous crowds of people can really make a person crave a bit of tranquilidad.
Luckily, the city is filled with loads of distinct neighborhoods, and some will give you a bit of that calm you’ve been craving.
One of such oases is Condesa. While not quite as charming as Coyoacan or Roma, Condesa is impossible to avoid for most foreigners in Mexico City because it contains a large proportion of the city’s restaurants, nightlife, language schools and so forth. It’s conveniently located (close to the historic center, but far enough away to be a lot less sketchy) so a lot of expats choose to live there. In any case, the neighborhood is a relatively peaceful place to get away from the hustle and bustle of la ciudad.
Many streets in Condesa have lovely pedestrian walkways going down the middle, offering a shady place to meander along. The neighborhood’s highlight – Parque Mexico – is one of my absolute favourite spots in the whole country. Sit on a rock by the pond surrounded by trees and you’ll almost forget you’re in one of the biggest cities in the world. Lots of sidewalk cafes also offer places to relax.
But be warned: Condesa is muy fresa. In other words, full of rich people. In recent decades, the area has become very trendy, so is now home to the hip-and-rich. At the Starbucks, you’ll be surrounded by beautiful young professionals typing away on their Blackberries. In many of the bars, the clientele will be rich 18-year-olds with far nice clothes than any teenager should have. And the restaurant scene tends to be more slick, sophisticated and international than typically Mexican.
With trendiness, of course, comes high prices. Having moved from Guatemala to Mexico City, I was initially (and often still) shocked at the prices of many things in Condesa. 60 pesos for the same torta I could buy for 20 in another neighborhood? Yikes!
One of the funniest things about Condesa that everyone seems to notice is… dogs. Dogs are, apparently, the new black or the new designer handbag or something along those lines. Dogs are so hot right now in Condesa. As such, seemingly everyone has a dog. They are everywhere. And you’d think in a city as crowded as this that people would stick to the miniature varieties. But no, many get huge, even horse-sized dogs. Go figure.
Anyways, if you are on a strict budget, or are looking for “traditional” Mexico, you probably don’t want to spend too much time in Condesa. But visit at least once, or once in awhile, for a nice relaxing break.
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