Is San Pedro gloomy?

For what is supposed to be a happy hippie paradise, a “backpacker’s Shangri-La,” sometimes I feel like a sadness hans over San Pedro la Laguna. Although this is a lovely place to visit, I am glad I don’t live here long-term… I sort of feel that it would be like that part of the Neverending Story when Atreyu is going through the Swamps of Sadness or whats-it-called, and it was so hard not to get dragged under that he lost his horse to the melancholy. Artaaaax!

Except here, the Swamps would also be filled with alcohol, marijuana and cocaine.

Anyways, I digress.

I think I should clarify – I’m really talking about the foreigner community here in San Pedro. In fact, walking through the “real Guatemalan” part of town, I notice a lot of cheer. In fact, maybe the most cheerful town I have been to in Guatemala. Children skipping hand in hand, women chatting and laughing, old men watching the world go by. Of course, like anywhere I’m sure the place has its share of problems, but the local community here certainly doesn’t seem gloomy.

But in any case, for someone who has been quite uncharacteristically quiet this week, I have absorbed a lot of information about this place. Residents here – both locals and foreigners – have for some reason opened up to me and told me a lot.

A lot of the foreigners who work here just seem tired. Tired, and drained. Of course, this observation is based on just 9 days here, but I have still been struck with that overwhelming impression.

I asked the Guatemalan woman who owns my hotel about her life here. She shared a lot, including stories of the many foreigners she has known here. Unfortunately, a lot of them seem to have met untimely deaths. For what reasons, she didn’t really say.

“How many foreigners here are escaping their lives at home, because they were unhappy there?” I asked her.

“Many. The majority,” she said.

But you know, I have met some lovely people here who do break away from my overall impression of sadness. In fact, I think I have learned a lot and even gained quite a bit of “lightness” in the last week because of some of the people I have met. I think I will write about some of these encounters in the next few days. So anyways – I can’t really making sweeping generalizations about all the foreigners here. But I can note the overall atmosphere, and it certainly is one that differs from what I had initially expected from San Pedro.

Comments 2

  1. Doug wrote:

    Hi Caitlin:

    I’ve been living in San Pedro since last fall (with only a couple of short breaks) — and much of what you say rings true.

    I came here to escape the crumbling economy and the death of my industry in Vancouver (the media). I found I could work here as a writer, work better and make more than enough money to enjoy a comfortable lifestyle for an indeterminate length of time.

    I love it here, but I also find it a little sad. There is so much alcohol and drug abuse in the expat community that it makes it really hard to connect — especially if you don’t do drugs, drink responsibly and eschew cigarettes.

    If you have any kind of dependency problem, San Pedro is not the place to be.

    I enjoy hanging out with most of my new ex-pat friends while they’re sober or mildly buzzed (they have great stories)… but when they get sloppy, it’s time to retreat to the sanity of my house.

    I also find the “local” parts of San Pedro much more uplifting (except for the cantinas). And the pool is a nice oasis from the drugs and booze too.

    San Pedro is certainly an interesting place to call home. For now.

    Cheers!

    Doug

    Posted 18 Aug 2009 at 6:23 am
  2. Caitlin wrote:

    hi doug,

    thanks for your comment!
    heh, the fact that you are wrote that so early in the morning maybe indicates that you are a bit apart from the party scene. You are right, though, there are some interesting people here with some fabulous stories.
    My parents are both journalists so I certainly know about the crumbling industry of which you speak. Glad that you have been able to find a way to support yourself writing, and I hope that it continues that way.

    all the best,

    caitlin

    Posted 18 Aug 2009 at 10:17 am

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