Chicken buses, or “camionetas” as they are known to locals, are pimped-up second hand school buses that serve as the most common form of public transportation in Guatemala. They zip along the roads of Guatemala, leaving a trail of black exaust and the sounds of “Xela Xela Xela” or “Guate Guate Guate” in their wake. They are also extremely cheap: Antigua to Xela, for instance, costs 5 dollars (versus 25 on a tourist shuttle.)
According to the Rough Guide to Guatemala, chicken bus drivers “always seems to be moustachioed ladinos with an eye for the ladies and a fixation for speed and overtaking on blind corners.”
This is completely true.
When I did the Antigua to Xela journey last summer by tourist shuttle (with a stop in Panajachel, mind you) it took almost six hours. Today, our chicken bus made it in three and a half.
We raced along the curving highway at speeds unimaginable. At one point, we passed a tourist shuttle and I stared at them through the window, saying “S’long suckers!” Yes: the experience is a mixture of fun and fear.
At most points in the journey, the seats were jammed with three people each. For slight Mayans this is, of course, not a problem. But for wide gringa bottoms it’s just a little cozy. About two hours into the trip, a young man brought a box full of raw fish aboard, and I knew it was time to hit the Gravol.
Truth be told, though, it’s this kind of chaos that keeps me hooked on travel, especially to developing countries. It keeps me on my toes and makes me feel alive, as cliched as it sounds.
On chicken buses, where there were once rules for American schoolchildren posted at the front (“No standing on the bus. No smoking. No food or beverage”) there are now only religious quotes:
“I drive – God guides me”
or
“We are all in God’s hands.”
Even for a non-religious person like myself, these quotes summarize the attitude needed to travel. Roll with the punches. Cross your fingers and go with it. When you arrive in one piece, you’ll feel happier than you did before. When the fresh air is blowing through the windows and merengue is blaring on the stereo, all you can do is enjoy the ride.
Unfortunately, the one real problem on the trip from Antigua to Xela was that my friend Jen was robbed. While changing buses in Chimaltenango, someone must have slashed the bottom of her bag, because once we were on the next bus we noticed a hole at the bottom and her wallet was gone. Luckily, her passport and cash were in her money belt so after being initially really shaken up, I think she feels better now. Something I felt a year ago when I was robbed for the first time (in Ouagadougou) – thankful that as long as your health and sanity is with you, nothing you lose is that important.
Comments 4
In Israel we got something called service cabs. These are different kinds of vans, usually sit ten passengers (and some will illigally sit an 11th on a small plastic stool, which is good because you’d rather do that than wait for another one). They honk, they yell, some will smoke while driving and go tell them that the smoke DOES enter the car, they course, and some will give you a free ride if they see you’re really outa money at the moment. They race before buses so they can pick up passengers earlier. It’s not as exotic as a chicken bus, but I’d say it’s way closer than anything here in Canada, or maybe I’m not aware of everything.
Next time get an iron plated bag.
Posted 29 Jun 2009 at 7:26 am ¶Caitlin, great post. I’ve been here for 8 months now and my early rides on the buses are memorable.
The story about passing a tourist shuttle is a classic…
However, there are some rules posted, e.g., I was on a bus one time that said, “Children under 5 must be with a parent”. I guess a six year old can get around the country without a problem!
Posted 29 Jun 2009 at 10:14 pm ¶OH NO
Jen got robbed?! I am so sorry to hear that!! but I am thrilled to see that you made it alive to Xela!! I am home now too – uneventful trip home except for the last 30 minutes or so on the tarmac in Toronto when police escorted two people off the plane – drugs and domestic disputing are apparently NOT allowed on Delta airlines.
I am going to post pics once my laundry is done – YAY
Posted 30 Jun 2009 at 3:02 pm ¶Mark – that posted rule is delightful. Kids around here are pretty bad ass… so I would hardly be surprised if a 6 year old could navigate the chicken bus system on his own. Heh.
Sheena – in retrospect, we are pretty sure who it was that slashed Jen’s purse. We now refer to her as “that fat thieving whore who stole Jen’s wallet.”
Posted 30 Jun 2009 at 4:28 pm ¶Post a Comment